Abstract Abstract -This study aimed to use and attempted to apply total quality management TQM in the Sudanese garment manufacturing factories to improve productivity and profitability and product quality and solving the factory's problems to meet customer satisfaction and decrease the garment imported and determined the potential of competition of local factories in the local and global market. The study designed and employed two methods, one for local garments factories in Sudan and the second for Sudanese consumers. The first one survey conducted among a sample of the local garment factories in Sudan to determine the impact on company strategy, management practices and performance, to identify the weakness and strength and solving problems. The second survey was conducted and employed for Sudanese consumers, the purpose of this survey is attempted to explore and identify how the Sudanese consumers evaluate garment quality and determine all the factors influence perception of garment quality and selection. The study focus on all operations of garment manufacturing start from design to storage and this study used Just in time, 5S checklists, quality assurance, and six sigma. Also the research focus on time cycle for manufacturing one piece of shirt and trouser between three workers to calculate the average time and identified the waste of time reason and losses time at the factory and time cycle elongation, the factories does not have a standard operation time. Similarly, the study observed nonvalue activities such as unnecessary transportation and manual operations, waiting for raw material due to poor layout and there were also product defects due to poor applying of 5S system and unqualified the workers. After implementation lean tools, using process flow chart and check sheets, quality assurance, the cycle time analysis, the standard time operation was determined. Likewise, the non-value added activities were reduced, thus productivity was improved, the scrape, rejection and defect of production are reduced and the factory meeting the customer expectation in the time delivery and quality of the product and the factory have a good name and reputation in the market. This study proved the importance and greater advantageousness have been investigated of application of TQM in garments manufacturing in Sudan.

Table of Contents

Acknowledgements..............................................................................................................I

Dedication …. .. .. . ..….....................................................................................................II

Abstract … … .. … …. ................................................................................................ III

IV………...................................................................................................................المستخلص

Table of Contents............................................................................................................... V

Abbreviations.................................................................................................................... XI

List of Tables....................................................................................................................XII

List of Figures................................................................................................................ XIV

Chapter 1 Introduction......................................................................................................... 1

1.1 Introduction ................................................................................................................ 1

Chapter 2 Literature review................................................................................................. 1

2.1 Introduction ................................................................................................................ 1

2.2 Production systems use in garment manufacturing.................................................... 1

2.3 Factors evaluating production system........................................................................ 1

2.4 The main processes and Steps of garment manufacturing ......................................... 2

2.4.1 Planning of garment manufacturing.................................................................... 2

2.4.2 Design and Pattern making ................................................................................. 3

2.4.3 Spreading and cutting ......................................................................................... 5

2.4.4 Sewing................................................................................................................. 6

2.4.5 Sewing-room problems....................................................................................... 6

2.4.5.1 Seam pucker ................................................................................................ 7

2.4.5.2 Differential fabric stretch and feed pucker.................................................. 7

2.4.5.3 Dimensional change of the fabric................................................................ 7

2.4.5.4 Sewing defects caused by needles............................................................... 7

2.4.5.5 Problems in stitch formation........................................................................ 8

2.4.5.6 Sewing Thread breakage ............................................................................. 9

2.4.6 Fusing process................................................................................................... 10

2.4.7 Pressing............................................................................................................. 11

2.4.8 Storage and packaging ...................................................................................... 11

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2.5 Quality assurance and quality control in garment manufacturing............................ 11

2.5.1 Preproduction inspection and testing of raw material....................................... 13

2.5.1.1 Inspection and testing of fabric ................................................................. 13

2.5.1.2 Inspection and testing of accessories......................................................... 14

2.5.2 Quality control and inspection during production ............................................ 14

2.5.2.1 Spreading and cutting inspection............................................................... 14

2.5.2.2 Assembling inspection............................................................................... 15

2.5.2.3 Sewing inspection ......................................................................................... 15

2.5.2.4 Pressing and finishing inspections............................................................. 15

2.5.3 Final inspection................................................................................................. 16

2.6 Garment cost ............................................................................................................ 16

2.6.1 Cost elements.................................................................................................... 16

2.6.1.1 Direct material cost.................................................................................... 17

2.6.1.2 Direct labor cost......................................................................................... 17

2.6.1.3 Direct expenses.......................................................................................... 18

2.6.1.4 Indirect cost or overhead ........................................................................... 18

2.6.2 Garment costing sheet analysis......................................................................... 18

2.7 New systems and tools for garment manufacturing development ........................... 19

2.7.1 Lean production ................................................................................................ 19

2.7.1.1 Introduction ................................................................................................... 19

2.7.2 Total Quality Management (TQM)................................................................... 21

2.7.2.1 Quality ....................................................................................................... 22

2.7.2.2 Basic quality tools ..................................................................................... 22

2.7.2.3 Definitions of Total quality management:................................................. 26

2.7.2.4 TQM factors .............................................................................................. 27

2.7.2.5 The influence of Top Management commitment in implementing TQM..... 27

2.7.2.6 TQM barriers............................................................................................. 27

2.7.3 Six Sigma .......................................................................................................... 28

2.7.4 5S ...................................................................................................................... 28

2.7.5 Kaizen system:.................................................................................................. 28

2.7.6 Just-In-Time (JIT)............................................................................................. 29

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2.7.7 Toyota production systems............................................................................... 29

2.7.8 Kanban system.................................................................................................. 29

2.7.9 Program 20 keys or PPORF.............................................................................. 30

2.8 Problem statement.................................................................................................... 30

2.9 Hypotheses............................................................................................................... 30

2.10 Objectives of the study............................................................................................. 34

2.11 Thesis out lines......................................................................................................... 34

Chapter 3 Materials and methods...................................................................................... 36

3.1 Introduction .............................................................................................................. 36

3.2 Materials................................................................................................................... 36

3.2.1 The survey for local factory.............................................................................. 36

3.2.2 The comparison between imported and local product ...................................... 37

3.2.3 The survey for consumer .................................................................................. 38

3.2.4 The case study................................................................................................... 39

3.2.4.1 Introduction ............................................................................................... 39

3.2.4.2 Range of application of total quality management (TQM) ....................... 39

3.2.4.3 The investigation of time study of garment manufacturing steps of x1 and

x2 factories…………………………………………………………………………....39

3.2.4.4 The investigation of time study of garment manufacturing steps of x1

factory ……………………………………………………………………………40

3.3 Methods.................................................................................................................... 41

Chapter 4 Results and Discussion ..................................................................................... 42

4.1 Introduction .............................................................................................................. 42

4.2 Resulting of Survey for local factories..................................................................... 42

4.2.1 The results of analysis of the chosen items and questions from the local

factories survey................................................................................................................ 43

4.2.1.1 The time cycle for manufacturing shirt per minute ................................... 43

4.2.1.2 Production systems available in the local factories................................... 44

4.2.1.3 Number of production phases available in the local factories:.................. 44

4.2.1.4 Types of machines and equipment available in the local factories:.............. 45

4.2.1.5 Level of technology used in the local factories......................................... 48

4.2.1.6 Laboratory test available in the local factories: ............................................ 48

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4.2.1.7 Management practices applying in the local factories............................... 49

4.2.1.8 System of fabric inspection applying in the local factories....................... 49

4.2.1.9 Customer satisfaction and specification in the local factories................... 50

4.2.1.10 Time delivery for customer orders by the 10 factories.............................. 50

4.2.1.11 Maintenance system applying in the local factories.................................. 51

4.2.1.12 The questions orientation to the local factories and their replying............ 51

4.2.1.13 Comparison between Products of the local factories................................. 53

4.2.1.14 Problems of the local factories .................................................................. 56

4.3 Comparison between Imported and local garment................................................... 59

4.4 Resulting of survey for consumer: ........................................................................... 60

4.4.1 Introduction....................................................................................................... 60

4.4.2 The influences factors for the consumer when evaluating and selected of

garment quality according difference of gender.............................................................. 61

4.4.2.1 Consumer income ...................................................................................... 61

4.4.2.2 The social media assist to spreading the fashion....................................... 61

4.4.2.3 The consumer attractive with external appearance aesthetic more than

internal content of product........................................................................................... 62

4.4.2.4 The consumer determine garment quality by country origin ........................ 62

4.4.3 The factors assist the manufacturers and designers to understanding consumer

Requirements and expectations....................................................................................... 63

4.4.3.1 Consumer complaint and opinions lead the manufacturers to improve

garment quality ............................................................................................................ 63

4.4.3.2 The consumer returns back the order if there any defect in specification

requirement .................................................................................................................. 64

4.4.4 The negative factors effect for consumer to understand the garment quality... 64

4.4.4.1 The wide spreading of retailers in the huge number in the streets

randomly… .................................................................................................................. 64

4.4.4.2 Interested the garment designer to customer specification and

satisfaction… ............................................................................................................... 65

4.4.4.3 Incorrect information in the product and it relation with consumer

understanding for garment quality. .............................................................................. 66

4.4.4.4 Uninterested the manufacturers in the Sudan with the basic symbols of

care labeling and it relation to Consumer understanding of garment quality.............. 66

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4.4.4.5 The local garment manufacturers interested with time delivery more than

quality…: ..................................................................................................................... 67

4.4.5 The positives effective investigate for the garment manufacturing in the Sudan

if the consumer understanding and interested with garment quality. .............................. 68

4.4.5.1 Reduce of imported and lead the designers and manufacturers trend to

garment quality ............................................................................................................ 68

4.5 The Case study ......................................................................................................... 68

4.5.1 Introduction....................................................................................................... 68

4.5.2 Comparison between x1 and x2 factories in frame work................................... 69

4.5.3 Variation time of first steps of processes of garment manufacturing between x1

and x2 factories ................................................................................................................ 73

4.5.4 Variation of average time of manufacturing one piece of shirt for x1 and x2

factories by continuous production system ..................................................................... 76

4.5.5 The variation average time of manufacturing one piece of trouser for x1 and x2

factories by continuous production system ..................................................................... 76

4.5.6 Sewing defects of trousers in x1and x2 factories for 500 products ................... 77

4.5.6.1 Sewing defect of shirt in x1and x2 factories for 500 products................... 80

4.6 The case study for x1 factory.................................................................................... 84

4.6.1 Variation time between three workers for manufacturing one piece of shirt in x1

factory….......................................................................................................................... 84

4.6.2 Variation time for manufacturing one pieces of trouser between three workers

by continuous system in x1 factory.................................................................................. 95

4.6.3 Variation time between three workers for manufacturing 10 pieces of shirts in

x1factory by individual production system.................................................................... 104

4.6.4 Number of daily product in section quality (Product with defect and product

require treated) in x1 factory before implementation quality assurance and basic of

quality tools (check sheets)............................................................................................ 105

4.6.5 Number of daily product in section quality (Products with defect and products

require treated) in x1 factory after implementation quality assurance and basic of quality

tools (check sheets)........................................................................................................ 109

4.6.6 Comparison between percentage % of defect before and after applying quality

assurance and check sheets in x1 factory in section quality .......................................... 110

4.6.7 Number of daily products and number of defect of shirt before applying quality

assurance and basic quality tools in line production (sewing section) in x1 factory ... 111

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4.6.8 Most types of defect and number of defects of shirt in November 2017in x1

factory…........................................................................................................................ 113

4.6.9 Number of defect of shirt in March 2018 in x1factory (after applying quality

tools) in line production................................................................................................. 115

4.6.10 Most types of defect of shirt in March 2018 in x1 factory in line product...... 116

4.6.11 Comparison between product and defect and percentage of defect in November

.2017 and March.2018 in x1 factor in line production................................................... 118

4.6.12 Comparison between the two types of production system in x1 factory......... 120

4.6.13 Improving inx1 factory during research study................................................ 122

Chapter 5 Conclusion and Recommendation .................................................................. 124

5.1 Conclusion.............................................................................................................. 124

5.2 Recommendations.................................................................................................. 125

5.3 Future Work ........................................................................................................... 126

References…… ................................................................................................................ 128

Appendix A….. ................................................................................................................ 132

A.1 Survey for local factories ....................................................................................... 132

A.2 Appendix 2 Survey for Consumer.......................................................................... 136